Flood vs spot lights

Take 1,000 lumens. Spread them over a 40 degree cone and you have a flood: a wide, even wash that covers a driveway or a patio and is not especially bright anywhere in particular. Squeeze the same 1,000 lumens into a 20 degree cone and you have a spot: a defined circle, several times brighter inside it, dark outside.

Nothing else about the two products needs to differ. Same lumens, same color temperature, same wet rating - the beam angle is the product. Which is why it is infuriating that so few outdoor listings publish it.

The pattern: anything you walk on or across wants a flood or its own low fixtures. Anything you look at wants a spot. Getting that backwards is why some gardens read as a car park and others have a beautifully lit tree beside a pitch-dark path.

Feit PAR38 flood, 1,400 lm - the flood pick. 1,400 lumens at 3000K with CRI 90 and dimming, in the PAR38 shape almost every outdoor flood fitting takes. Warm and high-CRI is a better neighbor than the 5000K most outdoor floods ship with.
Cons: it is a bulb, so the fitting and its rating are your problem; beam angle is not published on the product page, which is the specification this page is about.

Philips PAR38, 900 lm - the modest flood. 900 lumens at 3000K with CRI 90, wet rated. Plenty for a doorway, a small patio or a corner of a yard - and a more comfortable amount of light close to a house than anything brighter.
Cons: not dimmable; 900 lm will not cover a driveway; no beam angle published.

LUTEC 72W motion flood - when the job is an area, not a fitting. 7,500 lumens at 5000K with motion, which is a different category from a bulb in a lantern: this is for covering a yard, a driveway or a work area.
Cons: 5000K and 7,500 lumens is the light-trespass risk of this page in one product - aim it down and low; no CRI or beam angle published; it needs an existing outdoor circuit.

NYMPHY solar spot, 400 lm - the spot pick. 400 lumens with three brightness modes and no wiring at all, which is what makes uplighting a tree a Saturday job rather than a trench.
Cons: solar output falls with the season and the weather; no beam angle or color temperature published; and 400 lm is an accent, not area light.

Aim down, always. Any beam that leaves your property above the horizontal is lighting someone else. The exception is deliberate uplighting, which is why spots exist and why they should be narrow.

Mount low where you can. A flood at 20 ft has to be bright to reach the ground, and everything it misses goes over the fence. Several low fixtures usually beat one high one.

Check it from outside. Walk to the street and to the neighbor's side at night. Five minutes there saves the conversation later.

Warm light near the house, cool light only where it is a tool. 3000K reads as residential; 5000K reads as industrial. Both picks that run warm here are deliberate.